Fishermen are increasingly catching new species of squid in the North Sea, including wild arrow squid. Global warming is causing changes to the type of fish species that occur off our coast and these new species are opening up new culinary possibilities. Chef Filip Claeys of the Michelin-starred restaurant De Jonckman in Bruges (West Flanders) gave the wild arrow squid a trial in the kitchen of the fish market in Zeebrugge (Bruges) this morning.
Global warming brings wild arrow squid to the North Sea: ‘Perfect for grilling on the barbie’
Colin Clapson
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“The squid looks like a sort of arrow,” explains Claeys. “It has an elongated body, topped by a head with eyes and tentacles.”
Seawater warming has been causing changes in the North Sea for some time now. “As the water warms up, there’s a shift beneath the surface: different species are swimming right up to our coast. This trend has been clear for some time: there are far more squid off our coast. But now new species have been caught, such as the wild arrow squid,”says Claeys.
Firmer in texture
The new varieties closely resemble the common squid, but there is a difference. “In terms of flavour, they’re virtually the same if you taste them side by side in a blind test. But the wild arrow squid has a slightly firmer texture than the common squid, and that’s what makes all the difference,” says Claeys.
That firmer texture also offers new cooking possibilities, according to the head chef. “I’d be more likely to use it for stewing in a paella, because it’s a bit firmer and really comes into its own that way. Another nice thing is that those small, elongated bodies have a very thin membrane around them, which is ideal for stuffing them, for example, and then briefly grilling them on the barbecue or frying them in a pan.”
Added value for the market
Claeys is also chair of the culinary organisation North Sea Chefs. That organisation is currently investigating what added value wild arrow squid can offer the Belgian market.
“At the moment, the auction price for wild arrow squid is also quite different,” Claeys adds. “The price for wild arrow squid is currently half a euro per kilo. For ordinary squid, you pay between 5 and 10 euros.”