Today and on Friday, the Ommegang, a historical spectacle with roots dating back to the 14th century, is once again putting the historical splendour of an erstwhile Brussels on display. Expect to see hundreds of participants in historical costumes, horses and floats. Many processions and parades have to go to great lengths to find participants, but that’s no problem for the Ommegang. Even members of the nobility are keen to take part.
The Brussels Ommegang was first held in 1356. It was originally a procession in honour of Our Lady of Sablon, organised by the Guild of Crossbowmen.
In the 15th and 16th centuries, the religious aspect took a back seat. It became a social parade for the city’s elites. And they certainly put on a show in 1549 when Emperor Charles V – the most important ruler of that day – attended the Ommegang. The city’s elites wanted to impress the emperor and treated him to a magnificent spectacle.
Brussels expert Roel Jacobs speaks of the tumultuous reign of an emperor over whose empire the sun never set. “People forget that Emperor Charles lived in Brussels for a large part of his life.” Jacobs now gives lectures with the telling title: ‘Emperor Charles, the Trump of the 16th century? On boundless ambitions, political manipulation and fake news’.”
The procession as we know it today dates back to 1930. To mark Belgium’s 100th anniversary, the Joyous Entry of Emperor Charles V and the impressive Ommegang of 1549 were re-enacted with 2,500 participants.
“Adjusted to today’s prices, the whole spectacle cost 2 million euros back then,” Brussels expert Roel Jacobs told Brussels media outlet BRUZZ. From then on, the Ommegang was due to take place every five years, but since 1958 it has been held annually. It always takes place during the first week of July. This year, it will be held on Wednesday 1 and Friday 3 July. “The fact that there’s a day in between is purely for practical reasons. If it rains, the historical costumes need time to dry.”
The Ommegang has been recognised by UNESCO, the United Nations culture and education agency, as intangible cultural heritage, and last year saw the publication of the comic strip ‘Ommegang 1930’, based on the turbulent 1930 edition.
It is remarkable that, since then, so many roles in the procession have been played by members of the nobility. Real counts, marquises, princes, baronesses and duchesses step into the shoes of their historical predecessors. And what few spectators realise is that this is still the case today.
For several years now, Emperor Charles has been played by Prince Albert-Henri de Merode. He lives in Germany and comes to Brussels especially for the Ommegang. And he is not the only one. Archduchess Priscilla of Austria plays Eleonora, the eldest daughter of Philip the Fair.
Or what about the Duke of Alva? For years he has been played by Jesus Manuel Matias Alonso de la Puente. Born in Spain, he moved to Belgium with his parents in the 1960s. His family tree traces back to a small Spanish order near Bilbao.
Traditionally, the Ommegang sets off from the Zavel at around half past eight in the evening. The procession then follows a route through the centre of Brussels, passing the Agoraplein, the Grasmarkt, the Anspachlaan, Plattesteen, the Zuidstraat and the Stoofstraat, culminating in a grand finale with a sound and light show on the Grote Markt, Brussels' historic market square.
Between 59 and 89 euros
Grandstand seats on the Grote Markt cost between 59 and 89 euros. “Reasonable prices when you consider how expensive our production is. The hire of the grandstands alone costs around 38,000 euros. And you don’t have to pay to watch in the streets. I can, for example, recommend the Zavel as an ideal spot to watch the procession,” says Daniël Huyberechts, who has been involved in organising the Ommegang for many years.
‘Incidentally, other activities also take place there, including archery, jousting, horseback tournaments and a Renaissance market with around 30 stalls. You can look forward to craftspeople and nostalgic snacks. We even have our own Ommegang beer, which you can sample at the Zavel,’ laughs Huyberechts.